“An exceptionally moving examination of a trans journey and the importance of embracing every opportunity to affirm one’s identity.”
“Are there others like me?”
These words are amongst the final ones we hear in Alma del Desierto (“Soul of the Desert”), in which the protagonist reflects on her journey and wonders whether anyone else has experienced the same sense of not belonging as she has over the course of her life, and how they endured the challenges that came with questioning their identity every day. The subject is Georgina Epiayu, a member of the Wayúu Tribe of Northern Colombia who underwent gender transition late in life. The documentary, which was made when Georgina was in her early seventies, follows her as she attempts to acquire an identity card that reflects her gender. This proves to be a challenging endeavor with numerous obstacles, to the point where our protagonist begins to wonder whether they were put in place to deter people like her from having their identity affirmed. The film is directed by Monica Taboada Tapia, whose careful curation of Georgina’s story leads to a compassionate, heartfelt account of her experiences conducted through interviews with the subject herself as well as a number of people in her community, which paints a vivid portrait of the transgender group as seen through the eyes of representatives of the queer community. A simple and unfurnished documentary that gets to the point immediately and spends very little time on exposition, Alma del Desierto is an exceptionally moving examination of a trans journey and the importance of embracing every opportunity to affirm one’s identity, a vital step towards living the life they feel that they deserve and flourishing into a sense of genuine self-acceptance and unconditional joy.
Alma del Desierto is not the first instance of the director exploring this specific subject, as it was previously covered in her short documentary Two-Spirit, which also centers around Georgina and her efforts to lead her life as authentically as possible. In many ways this film is a continuation and expansion of that existing film, focusing on the protagonist’s efforts to secure an identity card that contains her chosen name as well as her gender identity, which proves to be quite a challenge. Regardless of culture, the bureaucracy of any country has a reputation for being stifling and impossible to navigate without extraordinary patience and the willingness to handle the frustrations that come with lengthy processes that are seemingly interminable and impossible to work around. The film primarily focuses on Georgina’s efforts to make her way through this system, steadfast in her belief that only by attempting to make this change can she truly begin to feel the gender euphoria and sense of belonging that has long eluded her, and which she has chosen to embrace late in her life. The film spends considerable time exploring the trials and tribulations of a person who is dedicated to doing whatever possible to accomplish this goal; her fervent refusal to accept the pressure to simply resign and her constant belief that the struggle will be worth it is one of the several aspects of Alma del Desierto that feel so profoundly moving. It doesn’t become overly didactic, but it offers fascinating insights into the system, as viewed by someone who is committed to battling against the administrative stubbornness she begins to feel is purposeful but not insurmountable.
There is obviously much more to Alma del Desierto than simply a snapshot of the cyclical frustrations of the bureaucracy, which may be the main narrative thrust of the film but is actually only a small part of the deeper thematic content that propels the documentary forward and makes it so deeply compelling. The film uses Georgina as a representative of a group of people who felt like they did not belong in their body, or were never able to feel quite comfortable with the identity they were handed at birth, but who unfortunately were not afforded the resources required to become the person they felt was represented by their internal quandaries. Gender remains a source of much debate and conflict, and has proven to be a contentious topic on which everyone seems to have an opinion, which becomes troublesome when those beliefs interweave with legislation designed to invalidate one’s chosen identity. Georgina is a woman who has seen the world change before her eyes, and we witness the final step towards having her identity validated, which is represented in this beautiful elegy to the generations of people who were not fortunate enough to have the chance to be seen as who they truly are. The director captures not only the technical challenges Georgina faces, but also spends time exploring the culture into which she was born – she is an elder of her tribe, and we can see it reflected in her face, which has been creased and weathered by experience, conveying both wisdom and the glowing beauty of someone who has dedicated her life to helping those around her, and has now finally come to the end of her journey to affirm her gender. Taboada Tapia weaves an extraordinary story about the importance of revering the elders in one’s community and elegantly combines an exploration of the Wayúu people and the queer community, both of which are beautifully represented in Georgina’s story of resilience and defiance against the status quo.
For some, the concept of an identity card is taken for granted – it’s a small document to which we don’t pay much attention, as it is viewed as our birthright and thus something that rarely causes much concern or conflict. However, Alma del Desierto focuses on a group of people to whom this isn’t just a document, but a piece of self-assurance and recognition that reflects what a given individual feels is their true self. It’s not an easy journey, and it is one that can be complicated by a number of factors, including legal and bureaucratic obstacles that would be intimidating to anyone who didn’t have the resolve and strength of spirit to attempt to overcome them, since the reward would be worth the effort. The film is not bound by its more complex elements, and instead focuses on establishing a clear atmosphere that is simultaneously melancholy and celebratory, exploring the day-to-day experiences of the transgender community as seen through the eyes of someone whose undying belief in a better future motivates her to express herself in her own way, as well as navigating the challenges presented to her community. The desert at the heart of this film is a powerful motif, since despite its aridness, there is always the possibility of something flowering, a kind of hope in the desolation that creates a film which seeks out an oasis of optimism for a better future. It shows that identity is worth celebrating, and that it is never too late to become the person you have always wanted to be. A powerful, heartfelt and endearing documentary that celebrates a trailblazer of her community, Alma del Desierto is an inspiring and moving film that carries immense socio-cultural weight and proves to be one of the most poignant explorations of queer identity in recent years.